Support

"np" is displayed

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On hot water (frost stat) controllers should the temperature probe become disconnected "np" is displayed. This stands for NO Probe
This means the controller can no longer detect the temperature probe.

In this case please check the following:

1. Check the black connector plug has not been knocked off or Loosened
2. press the enter button so “tp” is displayed, does it still show 0 ?
3. Ensure the probe its self has not worked loose from the T in your line
4. In the event the probe has failed replacements can be purchased from your distributor.

Pump Cycles in & out of DE

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If the pump is cycling ( start - stopping ) unexpectedly it may be that the controller is dropping the pump in/out of DE.

The result of the pump cycling is poor or erratic flow to the brush. Very often this may be because the calibration setting is to low for the flow rate. In many cases increasing the Calibration setting will solve the issue.

The suggestion would be to increase calibration in steps of 5 (For example if your calibration is 45 increase to 50) Following each increase allow a few seconds to see if normal flow is restored.

Following any change to a system such as
* Replacing a Pump
* Changing to a different ID hose
* Addition of an angle adapter

Recalibration is recommended as the systems pressure profile and pump current draw will change. The controller should be re calibrated to match this.

Note:
During low temperatures you may find the Calibration will need to be increased so going up from say 45 to 60

The pump may be cycled in/out of DE is because of changes caused by the low temperatures in the way the hose line expands and speed of expansion Plus the Viscosity of the water being lower at this time of year compared to summer. Both can cause the pump to work harder increasing pressure and current draw.

While a higher calibration will mean the pump is slower to DE and slower coming out the difference may be a second.

Water Viscosity is the thickness of the water molecules they clump together in low temperature meaning the water actually flows more slowly. As an example of Viscosity compare a Slush puppy ice drink to a coffee. One is thick and pours slowly because its cold ( Low Viscosity) the coffee will pour fast ( High Viscosity )

In Low temperatures what this means for your system is the water will move slower in the line this means the pump must work harder to achieve the desired flow (Compared to warmer temperatures) This increases both pressure and the current drawn by the pump.
Add to this that in low temperatures your hose line wall is stiffer than it would be in summer its not as pliable. In low temperatures this means the hose is slower to expand again this will increase pressure.

This flexibility of the controller is designed in to allow it to manage a very wide range of situations

One Shot not switching the pump.

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The remote defaults to 'on' at power up. Effectively pressing the fob disconnects the relay by making it go the opposite way. This is a line of sight device.

If your One Shot is not working check:

1. If the DIP switches in the receiver have been changed? Check fob channel and check positions of DIP switches. Also, ensure the channel on the fob and receiver are the same.

2. The fob battery is flat. Replace or check with a meter. The fob battery should be 3.0V (battery size CR2032).

3. The receiver has been damaged (possibly due to a miss-wire or water ingress). Observe correct polarity when connecting to the 12V battery. These are DC devices.

4. The receiver has locked up. Please disconnect from the battery for 30 seconds then reconnect. Red to +ve (positive) and black to -ve (negative). Press and hold fob button. Does pump respond?.

5. Check with pump disconnected but red and black connected to power. Operate fob. Can you hear Standalone's relay clicking? If 'no' check the wiring and in particular the connectors. A loose connection may mean the receiver is not powered or not able to switch the pump.

Note: If the relay clicks but will not operate the pump, then check the brown cables and connectors as these switch the pump.

6. Check the wiring to the manual. Is it connected properly?

7. Has the fuse blown? Has the in line fuse blown (as per the manual) in the connection to the pump? If 'yes' then replace it with 7.5A fuse.

8. Is the operator behind a building? Or is sight line obstructed? Raising the transmitter can help extend the range.

9. Mounting the receiving antenna as high as possible will increase range.

10. Avoid multiple presses of the fob as this will cycle the pump on and off.

What Is Viscosity

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You will find many detailed technical explanations on line. For our purposes viscosity is the thickness of a liquid or liquid based product. Water has a low viscosity as it is thin and normally flows easily. Oil in comparison has a higher viscosity as it is thick and flows slowly.

The temperature will affect the viscosity of both water and oil. For example as they are heated the viscosity is lowered allowing the oil to circulate freely around your engine and lubricate it.

Water is affected by temperature in the same way and in the summer months you may find that flow rates are higher than in winter due the fact the water is thinner and will flow faster.

More noticeable is that in winter water viscosity changes as the cooler air temperature effectively makes the water thicker meaning the water will flow slower. Imagine the difference in pouring a cup of coffee against a Slush puppy which in effect is liquid ice.

The viscosity of water in your system will affect the pressure as

1. The water is moving slower

2. The hose walls will expand slower.

Combined these two effects will make your system slower to pressure up in the winter than in the summer. Depending on how your system is set up together with the calibration and flow settings some may see no change or it is so slight not to be an issue.

Others may find a noticeable drop in water flow in the winter months caused by this change to the viscosity. The remedy is quick and easy – recalibrate the controller to take into account this slower water and the change in the pressure dynamic.

What is Volt Drop

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The battery condition and voltage available will also have an impact on the volts and current available to your pump. A battery with a low voltage will struggle to get the pump to work properly which in turn will effect flow and pressure.

Although copper is a reasonable conductor of current, it is also a resistor as it is not a 100% efficient conductor. This resistance factor means that some energy is lost down the cable and this cause a drop in voltage available from the battery.

Poor quality cable and connectors can make the volt drop worse - poor voltage can impact on system pressure as the pump is unable to draw sufficient current to operate properly.

Low battery voltage, worn brushes and even motor efficiency (for example an old pump is less efficient than a new one) can affect system pressure. Note that older batteries do not hold a charge as well and that constantly running the battery very low will affect the battery cells ability to hold a charge.

REMEMBER! If the voltage drops to 11.0V the controller will display BAT as a warning. If the voltage drops below 10.5V, the controller will shut down the system completely in order to protect the battery.

For more information see 'What do I do if BAT is displayed?'

TDS showing erratic readings

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Deposits may from time to time build up on the sensor. In most cases this can be solved by removing the probe and wiping it with a clean cloth.

1. A static TDS meter is much slower to respond and is only testing the water it is dunked in.

2. The Spring probes are fast to react to any changes in water purity.

3. Are the tips of the gold probes on the Spring probe clean and free from dirt? This is very important as if the probes are not clean then you will get erroneous readings. There are notes in the instructions on cleaning the probes, but be careful they are delicate.

4. The probes are not protected in any way. Great care must be taken when installing the probes so that the gold contacts do not become damaged.
Unless you put the handheld meter exactly where the TDS probe has fitted the readings may well be different.
It is also possible that air pockets or less pure water moving past the sensor could send the reading high.

5. Check the Resin and filters to see if they need replacement.

6. Ensure the RO is flushed according to the manufacturers specification.

Low battery cut off override (V11)

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The V11 digital controller has a feature that will disable the low battery voltage cut off.

The purpose of the override is to allow you to complete the day's work before having to charge the battery. We recommend that the 'low battery voltage cut off' is not permanently disabled.

The V11 controller is designed so that if battery voltage falls below 10.5V then the controller will shut down the pump. The low battery voltage disable feature will allow you to continue working below 10.5volts. Be aware that battery manufacturers do not recommend prolonged use of a battery with voltage below 10.5V as permanent damage can be done to the cells. This would mean your battery will not charge properly and will not hold a charge as efficiently.

The control will continue to show the battery voltage as per the instruction guide. With the low battery cut off disabled the pump will continue to drain the battery well past the safe point of 10.5V.

We strongly recommend that the low battery voltage is disabled only to complete that day's work and is immediately switched back on at the completion of the day's work. Permanent disabling of the low battery voltage cut off will result in a completely drained battery.

Leisure battery not charging

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The V11 Charger controller has a built-in split relay and we recommend that the control is fitted as per our quick start guide and both fuse's are fitted in line.

Check cables for signs of wear or damage, also check and replace any corroded connectors.

In normal operation once the engine is switched on and the alternator voltage then rises above 13V the controller will initiate charging the leisure battery.

Check the voltage levels using the V11 controller, using the return button to select the battery reading display.

For the the V11 Charging controller, the display is follows:

'bAt' is the leisure battery

'Car' is the vehicle battery

When the control enters charge mode we would expect to see the voltage of the two batteries to be almost equal. If there is a big difference and the display show CHG there may be a fault with the relay or the wiring.

We would ask that initially you contact the distributor who sold the control.

NOTE: With the V9 model the voltage displayed is the voltage measured at the controller - this may be lower than the actual voltage at the battery terminals due to volt drop down the length of the cable.

If using the V11 range the voltage displayed is the actual voltage as at the battery, to see which version check the label on the back or side of the controller.

I have a charger or split relay. Why does 'bat' show?

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First check the information shown 'What do I do if BAT is displayed?'

Be aware that we have no means of controlling the rate of charge using the controller.

The maximum rate we can charge is set not by the controller as it acts only as a switch once the alternator/engine are running, but by the capacity of the alternator. The available charging capacity is controlled by the alternator which is generating current, engine speed and how much energy remains after powering the other circuits in a vehicle e.g. air conditioning, lights, stereo etc.

The amp per hour charge rate is dependent on a number of factors, for example the length of time the engine/alternator is running. Most alternators are designed to continuously charge a battery so the longer and faster they run the faster the charge rate. There is also a restriction based on the maximum capacity of the alternator and battery and how many other auxiliary circuits are taking current.

The amp per hour rate will drop off as the battery nears full charge, the batteries capacity to take current drops as the voltage capacity nears its maximum. The only way of physically pushing higher current into the battery would be to increase the voltage capacity and increase the maximum generating capacity of the alternator.

Issues to consider when charging:

1. Despite the split charger, the battery is still not being recharged fully. Solution: Take it out of the van or leave in situ and re-charge each night with a battery charger.

If you take 4-5 amps for 5-6 hours in a working day but spend only 1-2 hours driving (and charging via the split relay) you will simply not put back in what you have taken out.

2. In the cold weather, the water viscosity changes as do the hose expansion rates, meaning the pump will have to work harder. Batteries are also affected by the cold. The batteries will discharge quicker as the pumps are taking more current.

3. The battery is either not in great condition or the pump is pulling too much current. This is evident from the fact that the voltage drops from above 13V to closer to 11.0V when working.

As mentioned above charging the battery each night may solve this.

4. The Spring V11 charger split relay will charge when it detects a volt increase above of 13V at the alternator. The charger will continue to charge until the alternator voltage drops below 12.5V when the relay will open (stopping charging). The CHG message will remain displayed for 60 seconds once charging has stopped.

NOTE: Avoid switching the ignition on/off repeatedly as CHG will display for 60 seconds following each ignition off.

If the battery is fine but you are getting 'bat' issued then the system is causing too higher volt drop because it is taking too much current. Reasons for this can be: the pump is old/worn, a bad fitting restricting flow or some other flow restriction (dirt, too small jets, too small hose etc) are causing pump to use an excessively higher current therefore dragging the voltage down. These are the next things to look at.

Will the pump controller work with an Aqua-dapter/Aquatap

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The simple answer is 'yes'.

We recognise that the Aqua-dapter and Aquatap can be a useful tool for many window cleaners in the field. The Aqua-dapter and Aquatap are useful means of stopping water flow as you move between windows hence avoiding wasting water.

The taps can help give you ease of stopping/starting the water. The control will simply see a 'Dead end' and stop the pump.

A controller gives the benefit of managing the pump, the battery, system pressure and the water supply. Stopping the pump well before the pressure switch is activated protects the whole system while giving maximum versatility.

Erratic or poor flow rates

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On occasion you may experience poor flow rates and the temptation is to turn up the flow rate on the controller. While doing this may overcome the poor flow, it is masking the reason for the poor flow. We would recommend recalibration of the controller - you will need a water flow to do this.

Should recalibration not work there are a number of checks you can make.

The low flow may be the result of:

1. Mismatched or misaligned fittings. Have any fittings been changed or has a smaller bore hose been installed? If yes, recalibrate the controller

2. A restriction in the jets, brush or hose. Check for any blockages. Start at the brush head by removing it. Does flow improve? If 'yes' then the issue maybe the jets. If 'no' then remove the pole hose and so on until you end up back at the pump outlet. Check the pump pre-filter for debris. Some hose reels have a non-return valve and in some cases these can jam and cause the poor flow.

3. Using too small jets (we recommend a minimum of 2mm)

4. Air locks. So ensure there are no air locks or kinks in the hose by turning the flow up for a period to force air out of the system.

5. Disconnected fittings or hose. Check your pipe work.

6. Malfunctioning or worn pump. Disconnect the controller and connect the wires from the battery directly to the pump. In other words bypassing the controller for now. If there is a problem then it may well be the pump (and you may need a new one) or the connection to the pump.

It is worth noting that when pumps get worn brushes they tend to run very hot and they become very inefficient. This means that the motor has to work harder to achieve the same flow rate. This will sometimes even damage an older design of controller. This is because as the pump works harder it draws higher current from the battery and this can cause the controller to get hot.

7. Low Battery voltage. Use the controller to check the battery voltage. Low battery voltage and or worn /corroded connectors can reduce the available power to your controller and pump. As the pump struggles for power flow rates will be affected.

8 Effect of low ambient air temperature on hose expansion and system pressure.

9. If having eliminated all the above and bypassing the controller gives the expected flow then it is possible the controller is at fault. Either return to the distributor or direct to a manufacturer for inspection. If the unit is within warranty and the fault is due to a manufacturing error the unit will be repaired under warranty. If out of warranty or following inspection the unit is found to have been misused then a charge for repair may apply.

The pump pulses when in DE

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When in Dead End (flow has been stopped) the controller displays DE.

When in DE the controller is designed to re-test every three seconds to check for a restored water flow.

As the controller re-tests the pump will pulse or appear to turn for a short period, this is because the control needs some pressure in the system to test against. It is normal to hear the pump pulse in DE and some pumps may sound noisier than others.

Differences can be down to the type of pump - efficiency of the pump motor - age and the flow and calibration setting being used.

The control is designed to operate with a pump pressure switch. This engineering approach ensures that the pressure will not build up to high levels, as the pressure switch will cut in and completely shut down the pump.

Should the pressure build to a high enough value the pump pressure switch will activate and the controller will show PS (Pressure Switch). Hence
to restart the pump the original restriction will need to be removed. Should you need to leave the controller in DE for very long periods we would suggest switching off the controller.

How do I set up auto calibration?

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Ensure that the brush, pole and hoses are connected, any pole valves are open and water is able to flow.

1. Turn the controller on by pressing either the up or down button. Hold the button until the display lights up.

2. Press the up button until the display shows 30 (water flow rate).

3. Press and hold the up and enter buttons together to select calibration.

4. Press the down button to until you read '0' then press down again to get 'Aut' auto calibration

5. Press enter to start auto calibration.

NOTE! The display will flash 99, but leave the controller for a few minutes as it is sensing the system default setting.

Then:

1. The calibration value will be displayed. e.g. C45

2. Press the enter button to keep the setting (Set) and exit auto calibration.

3. The controller will remember this setting.

4. Your system is now ready to use.

NOTE! After auto calibration has calculated a value you can still adjust this manually (by pressing up or down) before pressing enter to set the value. Each system will differ slightly so there is no standard auto calibration value. As a general rule you should see a value between 30 and 60, and when working your controller should typically use a flow rate set between 30 and 60. If you still experience problems or have not been able to set the auto calibration, please contact your distributor.

What do I do if there is no water flow?

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In the event of no water flow follow the steps below:

1. Check the display on the controller. Refer to your manual for instructions.

2. Check that the hose has not become disconnected, twisted or blocked.

3. Run the pump to bleed any trapped air from the system.

4. Check that calibration value (CaL) has been set. Refer to your manual for instructions.

5. Check that the brush's jets have not become blocked.

6. Check the jet size. We recommend that the jets are no smaller than 2mm.

7. Check the maximum PSI of your pump. Our controllers are set to work with a 5.2 litre per minute pump up to 100psi.

8. Check that the pump is working correctly. To do this, disconnect the wires from the pump and battery to the controller and reconnect the wires from the pump directly to the wires from the battery, thus bypassing the controller and connecting the pump directly to the battery. If the pump runs and there is now a water flow, then the pump is working correctly. Reconnect the system to include the controller.

9. Check there is sufficient energy in your battery. To protect your system, the controller will flash BAT if the voltage drops below 11.5V and will shut down the system completely if the voltage drops below 11V. You can check the voltage by using the built-in voltmeter.

What do I do if PS is displayed?

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If PS is displayed, this means that the pump's pressure switch has been operated due to a high build up of pressure in your system. The controller is set to work with a 5.2 litre per minute pump up to about 100psi although it will work at higher ranges. It is worth pointing out that the controller does not activate the pump pressure switch. The controller is simply telling you the PS has opened. This will happen in because:

A. High pressure builds up in your system. The controller sets the water flow rate. The largest factors affecting pressure are jet size and hose size. The faster the flow rate and the greater the resistance to this flow, the greater the pressure. The controller monitors the build up of this pressure however it can only affect it through the flow rate you select.

B. The pump has become disconnected. Please see our wiring diagram in the user guide for correct connections. The controller checks for electrical current to the pump and if the controller cannot detect a pump in the circuit the default message is PS.

Common causes for the pressure switch operating are:

1. A restriction to the water flow, i.e. from a twisted hose.

2. Blocked or small water jets. (We recommended that the jets are no smaller than 2mm).

3. Grit or dirt trapped in the system.

4. Air trapped in the system.

5. Prolonged shut off of the water flow.

6. Check the wiring connections between the pump and controller. If there is a break or damaged connection the control can not see the pump.

7. In some case finding the restriction that has caused the high pressure is a process of elimination. Start by removing the brush and jets, does this clear the restriction? If 'no' then remove the pole hose and so on until you are back to the delivery pump outlet. Bear in mind that some hose reels have a non-return valve and in some cases these can jam causing high back pressure.

8. During very cold periods Ice can form in the Pump or hose line. Ice will obstruct the line and cause high back pressure build up. In turn this will activate the pump pressure switch.

9. Blocked Tank breather hole.
Blocking the tank breather hole can result in high pressure build up. As the tank empties the Pump will also draw air from the tank which is now effectively air tight. As air is drawn through the pump a Vacuum is created in your tank this will cause the tank contract ( Like a kids drink carton ) and high pressure in yours system.

10. In rare cases if calibration is set to 99 and combined with a very high flow rate the pump pressure switch may activate before the control can dead end the pump. In these case calibration should be reduced so the control is stopping the pump.
Properly calibrated the control should always DE the pump well before the pressure switch is activated.

11. Is the controller being used with a One Shot stand alone RF?
If yes then the control will display PS when the pump is switched off by the Fob.
Because the OSSA is a relay in the pump circuit what the controller sees when the pump is switch by the fob is that the pump is no longer in circuit. As the pump motor is no longer in circuit the controller will display PS while the pump is Off.
When the fob is pressed again the control sees the pump motor come back in circuit and the pump will be restarted.

Note: as B above:

The controller carries out an electrical test to ensure the pump and pressure switch are in the circuit. If the pump can not detect the pump due to damaged cable/connectors the control will display PS (pressure switch) as a default message. This is one of the crucial protections we put in place. The control no longer passes any current to the pump but instead retests the condition every few seconds. This prevents a dangerous condition occurring for example ( a loose moving or damaged connection touching ground (Van panels) because the controller is now limiting the energy.
Connectors and terminal blocks can also be a source of volt drop for this reason regularly inspecting your connectors replacing any that are worn or damaged is a good idea. Also check connections are secure with good contact to the copper core.
Check for any damaged cable where insulation has been chaffed exposing the copper core not only is there a risk of a short knocking out the fuse the exposed core can be a source of volt drop and become very hot in some circumstance,s this heat can be sufficient to melt insulation and fuse increasing the risk of fire.
An Issue with old connectors is corrosion something that is difficult to avoid in a wet environment such as WFP so keeping connections as dry as possible by placing cable into conduit is a good idea. Corrosion will increase the resistance of the connector and in turn volt drop across the connector.
A badly worn or corroded connector can become an energy wasting resistor. If your connectors are excessively hot they either need replacing or tightening, as your are wasting precious battery power.
The harder the pump works, the more current will be drawn. With poor connections in a system this will increase the energy lost in heat. Because Power = I*I*R (current squared multiplied by the connector's resistance). So the power lost in a bad connector is actually increasing exponentially. Compared to the energy consumed by the pump this is small. But every little helps!
A good connector should only feel warm to the touch in normal use.

What do I do if DE is displayed?

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DE means the Dead End detection on the controller has shut off the pump. This happens when the controller detects the water flow has been stopped. In normal operation this is most likely due to turning off a pole tap or kinking the hose line as you move between windows.

We designed the controller to detect when water flow has been stopped, so that the controller will stop the pump well before a pressure switch would. The advantage here is that the system is under less pressure reducing the risk of blown connectors or split hose lines.

We also design the control to know when the flow has been restored. It does this by carrying out a dead end re-test every 3 seconds. If the flow has been restored (pole tap opened or kink removed) the controller will turn the pump back on. We have engineered the V11 in a way that even if left in DE for prolonged periods pressure will not build up in your system.

The longest delay between opening a tap and pump restart is three seconds.

DE is also used as an error message so in the event of the control unexpectedly displaying this message please check the following information:

1. Run the pump to bleed any trapped air from the system. Turn the controller up to 99 to increase flow ad force the air out.

2. Check that the hose has not become disconnected, twisted or blocked.

3. Check that the water tank is not empty.

4. Set the calibration to a slightly higher value.

5. A blockage in the jets, the hose line or pipe work after the pump. To check for a blockage start by removing the brush, does this clear the DE? If not then next disconnect the pole hose and so on you may end up right back at the pump outlet.

6. Stuck non-return valve on the reel

There are a number of factors that will affect DE and the length of time it takes the control to DE and stop the pump:

1. Ambient air temperature. The temperature will effect the hose wall stiffness and expansion qualities of the hose. The change to hose wall expansion will effect how long the system takes to pressure up

2. The thickness and stiffness of the hose wall.

3. The size of the hose or microbore.

4. Low Battery voltage.

In our tests we have found that a drop in voltage will slightly increase the dead end detection time but this change is minuscule. Certainly this tiny increase will not cause any extra wear on the pump, battery or fittings. And remember that as the voltage drops the pump will run slower, dropping flowrates and pressures.

In most cases the controller is reporting a system fault. If having carried out the above checks, the controller is still showing DE then run the auto calibration as calibration may be too low.

What do I do if BAT is displayed?

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BAT means the battery voltage has dropped to 11V (11.5V for V9 controls) or less. The controller measures the voltage supplied to it down the RED and BLACK wires from the battery.

Note: In the case of older controllers it maybe showing the voltage measured at the controller, not the battery. You may find that testing the battery with a voltmeter will show a higher reading. To measure volt drop down the cable measure the voltage at the controller and at the battery.

Note: We recommend for a single pump system that as a minimum a 75Ah leisure battery is used. For two pump systems, a minimum 110Ah battery should be used. As the pump(s) draw current (amps) from the battery the volts are directly affected. The voltage will tend to decrease as the current to the pump increases.

Remember in general each pump will draw between 3 and 5 amps an hour depending on how fast and efficient the pump is. As the current initially available falls so the voltage also falls steadily however after continuous use the volts will fall away sharply, particularly once the voltage drops below 11V.

A Bat indication can be caused by the following:

1. A restriction to the water flow in the system. This will make the pump work harder, which in turn will draw more current and drag the voltage down.

2. The wires from the controller to the battery are too long. These wires should be as short as possible, because the longer the wire the greater the voltage drop. For example, the system could measure 12.5V at the battery but only measure 11.5V at the controller when the pump is running. This is because of the losses in the wiring from the battery to the controller.

Note: Old wiring with broken conductors will all have an impact on any volt drop down the cable. If there is a break in the cable or it has worn or damaged insulation then it could cause problems like a short to the chassis. In some cases, it may be worth replacing old or worn cables.

3. Poor connections to the controller. Do not change or replace the connectors supplied with the controller. If you do, you risk making a poor connection, which will also result in too large a voltage drop, thus triggering the BAT message to display.

Check the connectors and ensure they are not corroded or damaged - poor connections will also cause a voltage drop either between the battery and controller or pump and controller.

4. Your battery may need charging.

5. Your battery may be getting old and inefficient and not holding its charge.

6. Your Pump may have worn motor brushes and draw higher current this will increase any voltage drop down the cable.

7. Colder weather can affect the viscosity of water effectively making it flow slower. The pump will have to work harder drawing higher current. This will shorten battery life.

REMEMBER! If the voltage drops to 11.5V the controller will display BAT as a warning. If the voltage drops below 11.0V, the controller will shut down the system completely in order to protect the battery.

Manufacturers recommend that a battery is not run below 11.0V. (If you connect the battery directly to the pump, the system will still work but you may shorten the working life of the battery.)

Often if the controller is showing BAT or a low voltage the first thought is the controller is the problem, but it probably isn't. The controller is simply reporting what it is seeing!

8. If you have checked all of the above then you could try to disconnect the pole and fit an adapter so water can flow. Turn on the controller at the same rate. What is the controller reading now? If the voltage recovers (increases slightly) then the pole may have a problem like a blockage.

9. If the problem is still not found then next disconnect the hose reel and fit an adapter. If the voltage recovers then the problem is the hose. If the voltage does not recover then there may be a problem either in the system before the hose or with the pump.

10. You can also connect the pump directly to the battery (bypassing the controller). Put a voltmeter on the pump is there still a volt drop? Then the problem is either the pump or the battery!

What do I do if OC is displayed?

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OC means the pump current is too high. The controller has a maximum current rating of 10amps. However as an additional fail-safe, we have designed it to shut down the pump if the current remains at 9A or above in order to avoid damage to the controller, pump and cabling.

It is recommended that the supplied fuse is fitted in the positive (red) cable between the battery and controller. Fit fuse as close to battery as possible. Do not exceed the recommended rating.

Please see The Importance of fitting fuses ( Blogs)

Reasons for the current being too high include:

1. Damage or wear to the pump. The pump is the load which draws all current from the battery. A worn or damaged pump will draw higher current but be inefficient. Often this means you need to turn up the flow rate to compensate inevitably drawing even higher current. Eventually your controller will display OC.

For example: A pump may take too much current if it becomes faulty. Alternatively, too much current will be drawn if the pump negative wire should short to earth. In this instance the controller will shut down the output to protect itself and the wiring. It will display the message 'OC' to indicate this.

2. Badly worn, rusted, loose or damaged connectors can become hot and cause the pump to draw extra current. Replace worn connectors and worn Fuse/Fuse holders. Occasionally inspect cable for damage and replace.

3. The calibration is set far too high, i.e. 99. If your pump is working correctly, then please refer to your manual and set the auto calibration function. The purpose of the controller is to allow you to alter flow as required for the job. Reducing the pump speed means you use less current and have less pressure in the system. Although running Hi flow can be useful for rinsing normally flow would not be higher than 80 for prolonged periods.

4. Some type of physical restriction to flow in the system, in combination with an inappropriately high calibration setting. Check pump pre-filter are clear and that the brush jets are clear. Remember the smaller the hose bore the greater the pressure created and the harder the pump needs to work. These conditions will increase current drawn by the pump.

5. Running a twin pump system from one controller. Two pumps double the current draw passing through the controller. For the most efficient use of a two pump system, we recommend two separate controllers or the V11 Dual.

Other points to check:

Is the fuse or holder damaged or corroded and if so please replace.

Air temperature can also have an effect because as the temperature falls both water viscosity and hose expansion rates are effected. This means that system pressure may be higher to get the same flow. Higher pressure and flow increase the current draw.

NOTE: If you have a Hot water controller 0C can also be used to show zero centigrade.
In this case check the connector plug to your temperature probe and the Probe are secure.

Controller Messages

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Messages displayed on Digital and Analogue controllers. The following common messages can be displayed on our standard digital controllers:

PS meaning pump pressure switch Activation
DE meaning Dead End.
BAT meaning low battery voltage has been detected. (Note. Current battery voltage is displayed numerically)
OC meaning Over current
CAL meaning the calibration mode has been selected. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kKoskb7l7c&list=UL
AUT meaning auto calibration has been selected. (Note. While in CAL mode it is possible to manually calibrate the digital control without entering point 6).
SET meaning the selected calibration has been saved into the processor memory.
FLO displays the selected water flow rate currently in use.
Err meaning an error has occurred while using Auto Cal. This can happen if the pump is not connected or the Enter button has been pressed to cancel Auto Cal.
ON/OFF to enable or disable the low battery cut off sees point 3. (note this feature is only available in the V11 digital)

In Addition to the above, the Charger can display

CHG Charging the intelligent split relay has closed allowing the alternator to charge your leisure battery
CAR Vehicle battery volts are being displayed by the charging controller

Autofill controller:

FIL Filling has been activated and will continue until the float switch de-activates the solenoid filling valve.

Frost protect/Hot water controller

TP Temperature. The water temperature in Celsius
HTR Heater. Although the control can not directly control the output temperature of water from your heater, the controller is used to switch the heater On/Off
FST Frost protection mode has been activated

Analogue controller uses LEDs to display the following information:

RED LED = PS the pump pressure switch has activated
BLUE LED = DE the control has detected a dead end
GREEN LED if Solid battery voltage is 11V or lower. If flashing battery voltage is 10.5V or lower. The pump will be shut down to protect the battery. (Note. The analogue has smart battery management but can not display current voltage).

The Analogue controller has many of the features and self-protection measures also seen in the digital controller. Using only LEDs it is more restricted in what information can be displayed to the user.

How to calibrate V11 analogue

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Connect your hose and brush to the pump.

Turn on the controller by turning the PUMP FLOWRATE knob ( clockwise). Water needs to be flowing to the brush.

Turn the DEAD END CALIBRATION knob to maximum (fully clockwise). Let the flow of water start.

Slowly turn the DEAD END CALIBRATION knob back down (anti-clockwise) until the water flow stops. The DE LED will illuminate.

Turn the DEAD END CALIBRATION back up (clockwise) a little until the water flow restarts.

Also see 'Setting Calibration on Your Analogue control' in Videos.

The controller should now be calibrated to your system and we would expect the knob to be set between 12 and 2 O'clock. However this will vary according to your system.

How to change a TDS probe

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To change your TDS probe follow this procedure.
Probe Removal:
1. Loosen the gland dome by turning anti-clockwise .

2. Loosen the TDS bayonet cap by pushing down and turning anti-clockwise, remove and slide up the cable.

3. Unplug the internal blue connector by gently pulling cable and plug.

Probe Replacement:
1. Plug the internal blue connector onto the 6 pins. Make sure the connector 'pips' are to the inside.

2. Without dislodging the connector, tighten the TDS cap by re-fitting bayonet, push down and turn clockwise.

3. Tighten the gland dome by turning clockwise.


If your TDS probe develops a problem check that:
1. The probes are straight and not touching.
2. That the probes are clean and free from dirt.
3. That the internal connector is located securely.
4. That the gland is tight and the TDS cable is held
securely.

Also see: V11 Controller with TDS